Weed Control for your Garden - Weed Killer, Lawn Weeds, Weed Control - Information

Weed Control…. That perennial plague that’s infesting your otherwise perfect garden sanctuary, you’ve run out of fuel for your flamethrower and still they come back. That’s because the simple act of cultivating soil helps distribute seeds that were having trouble getting into the cold, dark soil. Once in the ground their tenacity makes them a survivor that can easily dominate your favourite geraniums and pansy’s for the necessities of water, light, nutrients and space. The truly persistent pests can even survive to return after having their roots broken up by hoeing or digging. So how do we remove such a stubborn plant from the garden? What’s a good weed killer? There are two main ways to keep on top of this threat to your Chelsea flower show blue ribbon, prevention… with good gardening techniques they can be stopped, and cure… but sometimes it invloves you pulling them out of the ground yourself.

There are a few tools you’ll need to remove these pests, nothing fancy just a few things no garden shed should be without.

• A fork - no gardener should be without this basic tool unless they plan on concreting over the whole plot after giving up.

• A hand fork - Sometimes you will have to get on your hands and knees to make sure you have got it all, especially around borders but if being on your knees causes pain or discomfort gardener’s cushions that can be bought from most stores that sell gardening supplies can make things a bit easier.

• The Garden hoe.

• Plants - obviously, after removing that lawn weed you will need something attractive to fill the hole.

• Mulch - Can be bought from most garden centres but it’s always a good idea to get a composting bin to make your own. This helps lower expenses in the long run and gardening is not a short venture.

• A rotovator - These can be hired or bought and used before planting but should not be used on perennial weeds as they cut the roots and these will multiply and come back as a larger problem then when you started.

• A good weed killer - There are two main types, a foliage acting weed killer is sprayed on the top of the lawn weed and travels down killing the root and the other is soil activated, normally in granular form scattered on the ground these can last for months. Some are selective and will kill grassy lawn weeds while leaving ornamental grass plants alone. Check the product when buying to make sure it suits your needs.

A few simple steps and the garden while look perfect in no time at all.

Step one

Prevention. Very simply, you can keep lawn weeds at bay by crowding them out with plants. Strong, fast growing plants can cover ground with their leaves to crowd out annual lawn weed competition and discourage the lawn weeds producing seeds. Low growing plants with strong stems make dense carpets. Vegetable crops such as potatoes and carrots make good cleaners and can be grown to keep the ground clear before other planting. Otherwise you can cover the ground with organic mulch like leaf mould or bark, with gravel. Black plastic or old carpet effectively smothers lawn weeds in areas you can then dig and plant. Black plastic can be concealed beneath the ground and cut to allow plants to grow through.

Step two

Controlling persistent lawn weeds can be done by manual weeding, using a hoe and fork this is often the only way to deal with lawn weeds in borders, vegetable gardens and small areas. Do this in dry weather when we finally get a ray of sunshine long enough to dry the ground, so that lawn weeds come up easily from the ground. Take great care working around existing plants to leave surface roots undamaged. With perennial weeds, small patches can be dealt with at a time, but ensure that all parts of the root are removed, or it will come back. Check a month later for signs of regrowth and remove.

Step three

Lawn weeding control can be done mechanically, with that small rotovator I mentioned earlier you’ve either hired or bought. These are good at dealing with annual lawn weeds in unplanted areas and between rows of vegetables. Use a weed killer or solid mulch for up to 6 months before rotovating to kill perennial weeds.

Step four

Finally weed killer, read the packaging to find out which type you need and how to use properly. Also wear protective clothing, a hazmat suit may be over the top but rubber gloves, old clothes that cover arms and legs and even protective eyewear when using sprays is just good sense.

By definition a weed is just a wild plant some look attractive but if not kept in check can dominate a garden some of the worst one’s are

In the annual weed category:

• Annual Meadow Grass (Poa Annua)

• Annual Nettle (Urtica Urens)

• Chickweed (Stellaria Media)

• Groundsel (Senecio Vulgaris)

• Hairy Bittercress (Cardamine Hirsuta)

• Shepherd's Purse (Capsella Bursa-Pastoris)

And in the perennial category:

• Bindweed (Convolvulus Arvensis)

• Bramble (Rubus Fruticosus)

• Celandine (Ranuculus Ficaria)

• Couch Grass (Elymus Repens)

• Dock (Rumex Sp.)

• Ground Elder (Aegopodium Podagraria)

• Japanese Knotweed (Polygonum Japonicum)

• Oxalis (Oxalis Corymbosa, Oxalis Latifolia)

• Perennial Stinging Nettle (Urtica Dioica)

• Thistle (Cirsium Arvense)

• Willow Herb (Epilobium Sp.)

I hope this was helpful to you, now you’ll be able to enjoy your garden fully like you originally intended.

Garden Guide UK - Sam Higgins (Landscape Designer)